So it was 5 days in total, long time to be in a harness. There were two big gaggles that really got us behind on the route. One on Sickle ledge and the other at El Cap Tower going into the Boot/Texas Flake systems. There was a lot that went on over the days on the route. I’ll hit the highlights, and let the awesome photos that Tom Evans (fellow VMI grad), Andrew, and I took speak for themselves.
Day one: Started up, had everything set-up above pine-line and jugged to the first pitch. We chose to do the route ground-up and not fix anything. We moved well until Sickle, then had to wait behind a three-man bail team and bags stuck in gear. I kept cruising, and I started a very long block of climbing. Ended up finishing a pitch in the stove-legs and getting rained back into Dolt-Hole. Got soaked! Used the portaledge fly, and got the ledge up for a less then comfy sleep.
Day two: Kepted leading and finally finished a long block, with a 200 ft. haul upto Dolt Tower. Got some extra food from two cool CO guys, and Andrew took over to get us upto El Cap Tower. Fixed the Texas Flake, and had a great rest there due to aq gaggle above us.
Day three: Anrew finished to the top of the Boot Flake....then...KING SWING!! What an awesome pitch! At that point a day team we had seen practicing on day one flew past, as well as this bad-ass guy named Mason who was rope soloing the route in a day!!! Very impressive. My block continued, and I took a less then great fall while penjaluming in the wrong spot going from I think 18 to 19 or something. All was well, just scary. I have a skid mark on my helmet. I finished my block, and Andrew took back over. Had a great night sleeping next to the great roof. What a great pitch! Got to reverse aid thru the roof, wild:)
Day four: I got to jug and take a break while Andrew finished his block. I decided against leading the Changing Corners, and took back over leading after that pitch to the top. Great fun. Had to do one more night on the wall, since Changing Corners was backed up. Sleeping at the wild stance was wild! Nothing like waking up and looking straight down the Nose of El Cap. Now that’s what I call exposure:)
Day five: Did the short pitch upto the bolt ladder and the the bolt ladder. Super fun pitches, amazing top out! Got to meet and help a cool guy named Neal on the descent. He had finished soloing The Shortest Straw A4 the day prior. Had a beer at the car and a great meal and shower later. Got to meet so many awesome people. Had one party in front the whole time and one behind. It was nice company.
All in all I led half the route, had a great time, and met awesome people. Here’s some pics, hope you like them:)
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