So Pine Creek, cool place. Granite cracks and sport climbs. We decided to stick to sport to get some strength back. It was really cool. Took a bit getting used to the feel of the climbing, which involved a lot of high-stepping and mantling. Cheyenne this might be the perfect place for you:) At any rate. Got some good leading in upto 10d then top-roped some 11c's. They were awesome. One would have been super scary on lead. Matthew, I'm sure that you would have loved it. It involved a mantle, then a huge blind reach up to one of those thank god! holds. The thing is that you have to commit above a bolt and if you blow it, you're most likely going for a ride!
The next day it was off to Rock Creek, where cracks and mixed routes abound. Cool place in an alpine setting. I think that's one of the cool things about these crags, is that you are surrounded by this awesome scenery. Mountains and dthe edges of the Sierras. This place was great too. Got on this mixed 10a route, then 2 pitches of 5.8 upto a 10a finger/hand crack. Then Kristina and I gave our best efforts to this amazing 10c called Wages of Skin. What an awesome name!!! She went first and did an awesome job. Got the crux in two tries. I on the other hand hand to fumble my way thru the crux in like 5 tries. The climb involves some non-trivial cracka approach moves without gear, to a good piece and then three reachy bolts. You have to cross an OW, then face climb around the crack, then back in it for a little #4 and #3 action. Then some hands to this horixzontal finger traverse with no footies. You pretty much thrutch into this hand jam that you pray holds long enough to get you back into a veritcal splitter hand crack. So cool!
Yesterday it was off to the Owens River Gorge. This my friends is by far one of the coolest sport climbing places I have been to. Highly recommended!!! But....beware of the pump! Definitely the place to do many warm-ups. I was laughing at myself after the first route, where I got pumped out of my mind on a 10a WARM-UP!!! Pretty sustained and not a jug-haul by any stretch. I started thinking oh boy, this is going to be a long day. We decided to top-rope this bomb-ass 10d finger crack next door which was pumpy! I think it goes further than what we did, but the good part of the route is definitely that first part. After another two routes I was finally warmed-up and able to climb with out feel like my form-arms were about to catch on fire. I think that I started to adjust to the climbing and remember the movement of sport climbing a lot better. It's so cool the movement that you get out of it. Just as I was getting some confidence back, the weather turned and the winds picked-up and were blowing like crazy. We did one more route, super fun 9 then top-roped a 10c that a friend put up. It was a bummer because I was loving the climbing there. Such a cool setting and amazing routes. We decided that we would keep an eye on the weather and try to get one more day in there before heading outta CA. OH! We also saw The Bandaloop rope dancers there. They were having work-shop and let me tell you it looked so cool. Here is a link http://projectbandaloop.org/. So they rig these static ropes on the rock, and then they attach in with a grigri and harness. After that they dance around and do these flips and spins and stuff. Super cool. I recommend doing a Utube video to get the full idea.
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| You can't tell how windy it is, but it was definitely breezy! |
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| A view down into the Owens River Gorge, so cool! |
Today is a rest and planning day. Getting ready to head into the High Sierras. Planning on doing some great routes. It looks like Third Pillar of Dana is first. May be a long day tomorrow, but should be a beautiful climb complete with views of Mono Lakes. Then it's off from there to do some bigger multi-day base camp type climbs/ longer routes. The wish list as of now it Sun Ribbon Arete, Fishhook Arete, Mitheral, East Buttress/Face of Whitney, and then maybe something else. I'll report back later. Hoping to get some more days of cragging when we get back.
That's the climbing update. Stay strong, stay focused, and be confident in your goals whatever they may be.
hey girl - you know me I love my mantles. Climb hard for me - we are busy here catching some nice waves. I will be back in CO next May. Miss ya lots.
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