Tahquitz

America's first 5.9, The Open Book.  Super fun route!

                Tahquitz was fabulous.  I’m not sure why more people don’t come here to climb especially with all the history that these two rocky outcrops are steeped with.  I did the first 5.9 in America while I was here.  It was a fabulous three pitch route called The Open Book.  I got to lead the second pitch, which was money, but also number 3 and 4 BD’s.  Love that size....  Also led this fabulous 10a route called Human Fright, I think that it should definitely be a 3 not 2 star route.  It was a super fun right face corner with many dreamy hand jams.  Then we top-roped this 12 that did not have much chalk on it.  I love when you’re trying to figure the moves out, and you’re thinking “really that’s what I do?!” At any rate, the first day at Tahquitz was super fun and successful.  I was really nervous because I had heard so many things about sandbagging and the stiffness of the grades.  For cracks I think that the grades are very fair.  As for slab moves, that is yet to be determined.



Laura following up the Vampire.



                Next on the tick list was The Vampire.  I have wanted to do this route for a long time after seeing it in “A Day In the Life,” a movie, where Tiffany Levine Campbell makes it look like a 5.2.  I think it’s by far one of the best rock climbs I have ever done.  Although I only led the easy pitches (approach pitch and the final pitch), it was a pleasure to follow it.  The position is amazing, the exposure it great, and the climbing is wild and varied.  Without rambling do yourself a favour and go look it up on Mountain Project or a guidebook.  All’s I have to say is that this was a wake-up call to what 5.11 slab was in this area, and reconfirmed my beliefs that I would not be attempting any slab routes during my stay.

Me with the giant tree!

                We finished up at Suicide rocks for our last day and did three fabulous routes.  I led two amazing cracks: Flower of High Rank, the area classic 5.9 and Johnny Qwest, a bad-ass 10b finger crack.  Andrew put up an 11a that was interesting to say the least.  Very thin and tricky moves on granite.  I’ve learned that when you turn and lose pressure on your feet, more so than on any type of rock, you will outta there!  Good to know before heading into the Valley.  On the descent we went over and checked out just a little bit of the slabs from the ground.  I still have no idea how you’re not supposed to wet yourself on these routes.  Since Tahquitz was where the Yosemite decimal system was developed, and the like of John Long and Royal Robbins were putting up routes.  I think that it give you an idea what we were looking at.  I literally think on the Weeping Wall (need to confirm), that you do unprotected slab climbing to get to bolted anchors part way up the wall, where the actual routes begin.  Oh boy, sounds like fun.  Not it! 

                That capped our three days at Tahquitz in Suicide Rocks.  Each day finished in Idyllwild, a sleepy CA mountain town (no doubt rife with tourists at peak season).  We stopped in the Coffe House, used the internet and checked in with friends and loved ones.  I can honestly say that I love this place.  I don’t know what it would be like to live here, but maybe when I’m old and confused it would be a good place to settle down. 

               

                The trip so far has been super fun and very successful.  We are headed to the Valley right now, trying to figure out how and what is the best approach to get on the Nose.  I’m nervous, it’s big piece of rock.  Some call it the best route in the world, others the pinnacle of a climber’s career.  I’m just hoping to get up the route safe, sound, and happy.  I’ve got some cool pitches to lead, the Stovelegs, King Swing, and the Changing Corners.  All’s I can say is that I hope the rock isn’t too polished, the weather God’s cooperate, and that there aren’t hordes of hopefuls in line. 

Me leading the last pitch off the Vampire.

I wasn’t sure how I would do with so much time and no deadlines.  It’s cool.  I think so much of my life is done at a blistering pace that it’s easy to think that’s what life should be.  For the time being it nice to have some reflection, watch the ants carry away my tortilla crumbs, and try to become a better rock climber and person.  Send me some good sending vibes, and hope you all are rocking it out there in good style.

Recipe for Potatoe Corn Chowder

From the rice milk that I bought the other day.

Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook: 30 minutes
Serves: 6

2 Tbsps olive oil
1 C chopped leeks
3 C's chicken broth
8 medium red potatoes
1/2 Tsp thyme leaves
1/2 Tsp sea salt
1/2 Tsp black pepper
16 Oz. bag frozen corn
2 C's rice milk

1. Add spices and leeks in sauce pan, saute 3-5 minutes.

2. Stir in chicken broth and potatoes, boil.  Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.

3. Add corn, milk and simmer unitl taters are soft.

4. Eat!

Update!

Not good!

Hey Just got done climbing in Red Rocks.  Had a great time.  Accept......starting the first day of climbing by having to get towed out of a non-friendly Ford Focus back road.  Still got to climb that day, knocked out Triassic Sands.  It was definetly an adventure that day that involved 4x4 driving, hitch hiking, tow trucking and then climbing.  Lol, I guess you have to be a good sport or life will get the better of you.  Patricia, the lady at the Blue Diamond Travel Center was super nice.  She gave us coffee on the house and was very helpful in providing us assistance to get the Focus back on the road.  Triassic Sands was awesome, super cool, probably one of the few and best crack routes in RR.  Met some great people that day and had a lot of fun.



Me leading the last pitch of Triassic Sands, really good route.  If you do it definetly go all the way to the top.


 FINALLY knocked out Epinpherine!  Awesome route.  Got it done in 12 hours car to car.  The chiminey's were super cool and it was a lot of fun.  My feet were killing me in my climbing shoes!  That is by far the longest free route that I have done.  It was a kick in the balls to finish the 11 almost full rope length pitches of free climbing and have to do a 700 foot "scramble" to the top.  The descent was alright, got low on water and had to ration.  We had 2 litres a person, but it was hard to follow with anything else on your back.  The pack that we climbed with was a beast as I nick named it.  The route is everything that people say it is.  We were first party on and first off.  Go team SAMack (that is South African and Mack combined:)).  

An here come the chimney's!!!

Then some cragging at Ragged Edges.  Met up with Khristine and also met a great girl named Melissa )a.k.a Lissa).  Got some great routes in, but still not too sure how hard I climbed since two different guidebooks gave different ratings to routes.  I think given that John Bachar FA soloed one of the routes and gave it a 5.8 rating, which was later upgraded to 10a that I will go with the harder ratings:)  My ego likes it better too.

Hand cracks are a gift from God!!!! Love it!

 Sitting in Idyllwild (sp?) CA trying to get the next few days planned.  Most likely staying to get in two days of climbing at Tahquitz and then headed to send the NOSE.  Little nervous, but just have to be committed.  I've learned that I don't know what you call home sick when you don't have a home?  That people really are inherently good.  And there is a lot to learn about life, yourself, and climbing if you open yourself up to the experience.  I have a lot of great pictures that I am going to post up, and will definetly write more later.  Just wanted to give an update.  Stay safe, have fun, and look good doing it (thanks for that advice Kjell).

Leaving for trip

Today is the day, packed and ready will update as much as possible.  Thank you to everyone's hospitality before I left!!!  I miss all my friends already:)  Here we go.......!!!!!