Tahquitz

America's first 5.9, The Open Book.  Super fun route!

                Tahquitz was fabulous.  I’m not sure why more people don’t come here to climb especially with all the history that these two rocky outcrops are steeped with.  I did the first 5.9 in America while I was here.  It was a fabulous three pitch route called The Open Book.  I got to lead the second pitch, which was money, but also number 3 and 4 BD’s.  Love that size....  Also led this fabulous 10a route called Human Fright, I think that it should definitely be a 3 not 2 star route.  It was a super fun right face corner with many dreamy hand jams.  Then we top-roped this 12 that did not have much chalk on it.  I love when you’re trying to figure the moves out, and you’re thinking “really that’s what I do?!” At any rate, the first day at Tahquitz was super fun and successful.  I was really nervous because I had heard so many things about sandbagging and the stiffness of the grades.  For cracks I think that the grades are very fair.  As for slab moves, that is yet to be determined.



Laura following up the Vampire.



                Next on the tick list was The Vampire.  I have wanted to do this route for a long time after seeing it in “A Day In the Life,” a movie, where Tiffany Levine Campbell makes it look like a 5.2.  I think it’s by far one of the best rock climbs I have ever done.  Although I only led the easy pitches (approach pitch and the final pitch), it was a pleasure to follow it.  The position is amazing, the exposure it great, and the climbing is wild and varied.  Without rambling do yourself a favour and go look it up on Mountain Project or a guidebook.  All’s I have to say is that this was a wake-up call to what 5.11 slab was in this area, and reconfirmed my beliefs that I would not be attempting any slab routes during my stay.

Me with the giant tree!

                We finished up at Suicide rocks for our last day and did three fabulous routes.  I led two amazing cracks: Flower of High Rank, the area classic 5.9 and Johnny Qwest, a bad-ass 10b finger crack.  Andrew put up an 11a that was interesting to say the least.  Very thin and tricky moves on granite.  I’ve learned that when you turn and lose pressure on your feet, more so than on any type of rock, you will outta there!  Good to know before heading into the Valley.  On the descent we went over and checked out just a little bit of the slabs from the ground.  I still have no idea how you’re not supposed to wet yourself on these routes.  Since Tahquitz was where the Yosemite decimal system was developed, and the like of John Long and Royal Robbins were putting up routes.  I think that it give you an idea what we were looking at.  I literally think on the Weeping Wall (need to confirm), that you do unprotected slab climbing to get to bolted anchors part way up the wall, where the actual routes begin.  Oh boy, sounds like fun.  Not it! 

                That capped our three days at Tahquitz in Suicide Rocks.  Each day finished in Idyllwild, a sleepy CA mountain town (no doubt rife with tourists at peak season).  We stopped in the Coffe House, used the internet and checked in with friends and loved ones.  I can honestly say that I love this place.  I don’t know what it would be like to live here, but maybe when I’m old and confused it would be a good place to settle down. 

               

                The trip so far has been super fun and very successful.  We are headed to the Valley right now, trying to figure out how and what is the best approach to get on the Nose.  I’m nervous, it’s big piece of rock.  Some call it the best route in the world, others the pinnacle of a climber’s career.  I’m just hoping to get up the route safe, sound, and happy.  I’ve got some cool pitches to lead, the Stovelegs, King Swing, and the Changing Corners.  All’s I can say is that I hope the rock isn’t too polished, the weather God’s cooperate, and that there aren’t hordes of hopefuls in line. 

Me leading the last pitch off the Vampire.

I wasn’t sure how I would do with so much time and no deadlines.  It’s cool.  I think so much of my life is done at a blistering pace that it’s easy to think that’s what life should be.  For the time being it nice to have some reflection, watch the ants carry away my tortilla crumbs, and try to become a better rock climber and person.  Send me some good sending vibes, and hope you all are rocking it out there in good style.