Laura's Trip: Third Pillar of Dana

So this was the first of the Sierra's ticks that are on the list. Can't decide if this was a good route or a great route. The setting, exposure, and most of the climbing were very cool. I'll give a quick run-down of the day. Started with a lovely 430 am wake-up. Got to the parking lot and assessed that we would need some stiff soled boots for the snow that was still prevalent. The approach took a little longer than expected since there was snow on the trail. I don't know if we followed a trail? Got up on the plateau and found the start. For this route you actually have to descend 3rd and 4th class, then cross a small snow field in order to get to the base. Then you climb the route back to your pack. Pretty cool. For the first pitch I ended up on the 5.8 fist instead of the 5.9 stem. I was a little disappointed. Kristina did a great job on the next pitch dealing with a flaring 10a finger crack. I was up again, and went in search of the 10a variation. I found it, got about half way up the thing, and realized that there wasn't anymore protection. At least I tried to put some in to no avail. The last piece that I had was a bomber nut at about chest height or so. I had to commit to about 6 feet or so of climbing before I could maybe get a piece in again. I knew that there was a good crack above that, but was sure about the section above me. There was a ledge below me and also half of the rope out. I tried the moves at least twice, maybe three times and I just couldn't commit. It seemed hard for the grade, and I was sure that I'd fall trying. That thought wasn't good given the above info. I decided to down-climb back and do the alternate 5.8 pitch. I still don't know if I was being a baby or if it was a good decision. I just know that my gut was saying this is not a good idea, bad fall potential. Kristina took over again and did a great job on a pitch that I was not at all psyched about leading. There was a tricky 10b move/section and she did great and on-sighted. I got the last pitch, which according to many is supposed to be the best pitch in the Sierra's. There were some hard sections on it. The first was a 10b move/section that involved a very shallow .4 placement (only thing you could get in) above a ledge with some tricky moves. After doing some hard finger locks and pulling a roof, I thought I was in the clear. Not so much, there was also a committing 10a lie-back section that took some concentration as well. Some cool cracks and mantle moves led to the top. After on-sighting that pitch I felt redeemed from my previous pitch.

Walk-out was wet due to a lot of melting snow. I also got soaked thigh deep wading across what I thought was a shallow spot in the river. Got back to the car and proceeded to stuff my face. Great day, beautiful day. I hope that the other Sierra's routes follow suit. Finished packing today for about the next 10 days, where we hope to crush the rest of our Sierra's list. Happy 4th to everyone and will give an update when I get back in.